2013年10月11日 星期五

Budapest 布達佩斯- Hungary 匈牙利 #2


到菜市場吃早餐!香港人口中的掃街!(Brunch at market)

Great Market Hall (Nagy Vasarcsarnok)
Address1093 Budapest, Vámház körút 1-3, Hungary
Hours
Saturday 6:00 am – 3:00 pm 

在布達佩斯的第二日,我們去了馳名的Central Market吃第一餐。

一樓跟菜市場無異,都是賣些菜呀,肉呀,乾貨呀什麼的。

匈牙利人真的好喜歡鵝肝,市場裡面四圍都是賣鵝肝的。當初我誤以為市場裡的都是遊客貨(因為裡面好多賣伴手禮/土產的店),結果離開了才發現最便宜的竟然是這裡!

要買罐裝的記的要留意是否寫上'NATUREL'的字樣,因為這都是拌了較少的水份。就是說,它含有90%的鵝肝!

We went to the well known central market for brunch. The market hall is pretty much the same as most other markets found in Europe. On the ground floor, there are loads of veg and meat stores. Hungarian love goose livers. I think they are more passionate about fois gras than French people. Basically, it is impossible not to see these fatty livers in tins. 

If you are interested, remember to choose those with the word 'naturel' on the packaging. This means that it is a whole liver (90% roughly) in its own fat. Otherwise, you may get more water or other ingredients in it. 



到處在賣的都是這牌子的,感覺應該是比較好的吧!This brand is very common. Probably it is more reputable than others?
除了原塊的,我還買了一個有松露的鵝肝醬給我媽媽!I also bought a truffle infused fois gras for my mum who loves truffles to pieces.
由於我錯失了在市場的優惠價錢(4000Ft 140g),於是乎我只得在機場用天價購買一模一樣的鵝肝(19 euro)。付錢的時候真的眼淚心裡流。Since I was so stingy and stubborn, I did not buy any fois gras at the market. As a consequence, I had to suffer from the extremely expensive fois gras at the airport. 

市場裡到處可見的火腿店! Ham shop!
有點想雲南家庭在家風乾的火腿。
各種火腿都是用匈牙利國寶級香料(紅椒粉Paprika) 醃製的。Ham coated by a thin layer of paprika.
Langosh (炸面包) 有咸的,也有甜的。簡單說,就是有配料的油條!一個人吃不下一個,三個人吃一個也行。
Langosh (fried bread dough) is either savoury or sweet. Personally I do not 'loveeeeee' it because it is far too greasy. 
甜的一般都放些果仁呀,果醬呀或巧克力醬。看著都飽了,喜歡甜的會喜歡這個,但我覺得有點太多了。You can choose your toppings. The variety includes nuts, nutella, chocolate, jam, fruits etc. 
匈牙利的烤腩肉,店主用微波爐翻熱了一下。注意,他們不是按量賣的,而是秤重的!所以可以按個人食量挑!Roast belly. The shop owner microwaved it for us. Unlike shops in the UK, they sell it by weight. Remember to ask for a smaller one if necessary.
匈牙利腸!好吃!Hungarian sausage. Awesome!
匈牙利魚湯,辣辣的!是用淡水魚熬的,本人不喜歡,但是同行的友人大愛它!喜歡河鮮的朋友會一試難忘!不愛河鮮的還是喝傳統的牛湯吧,不然試試Virgin Mojito吧!

Hungarian fish soup. The fish version of goulash basically. Personally I hate freshwater fish. Thats the reason why I did not really enjoy the soup. Maybe a virgin mojito is better?
然後,二樓就是遊客聚腳的地方!因為有很多的熟食店,賣的都是匈牙利的傳統食物!但是注意哦,價格並不是十分便宜的!而且人多的想找個地方坐下也難!想要感受下那裡的氛圍就要早點出發啦!免得找不到位置坐下來享受美食!

There are plenty of cooked food stalls on the 2nd floor that sell authentic Hungarian food. However, the food is not extremely cheap plus its very very crowded. If you want to try authentic food or to experience eating at the market, go early! Otherwise you will struggle to find a place to sit and enjoy your food. 

匈牙利的家常菜館 (The very local Hungarian restaurant called Nanny Nancy)

Náncsi Néni Vendéglője
Address: 1029 Budapest, Ördögárok St 80, Hungary

Phone:+36 1 398 7127


吃完第一餐不久,我們又出發去找尋第二餐美食!這是蔡瀾先生推介的餐廳,在Buda的山上,可以搭巴士/電車或巴士。去餐廳的旅程,我們坐了電車(轉了兩次車,而且迷路了數次)。回程我們還是忍不住叫了的士,大概十多公里的路程,收費6500 Ft。不算太昂貴!

一般來講,我不建議坐電車,巴士比較好了!由於我們買了幾天的travel pass,逼於無奈要不停的坐公車。但是,其實本人覺得很多地方走路也不太遠了。


講到這個餐廳,去的路程好漫長。由於手機沒有GPS,結果要拿著手抄的地址到處問當地人。所以,去之前記得找那個直到餐廳門口的巴士。還有,記得要預早出門,因為布達佩斯的交通一到黃昏就好糟。那個巴士大概需時一小時,不喜歡巴士的可坐電車,不過到站後要走頗長的一段路。



After our first meal at the market, we set off to find good food again. This restaurant is famous among local people but not popular among tourists, due to the location. However, i do think it's worth it to travel all the way (almost an hour bus journey). 
We took the tram but I would not recommend it. Because we walked about 20 minutes to find the restaurant, whereas the bus stops right in front of the restaurant. Worst case, take a cab! It does not cost a fortune!

走到我腿都要斷了,見到這餐廳的剎那我是多麼的感動!
心裡想:要是這餐廳的出品有稍微的偏差,我一定要吐糟一番!
不負期望,它的質量無疑是值得我走這麼遠的!

Here you go! This is how the restaurant looks like from the outside.

店內就是很舊很傳統的陳設。 The interior looks a bit like a Swiss cottage. Very warm and cosy!
我們點了店員推介的匈牙利香檳,較甜且容易入口,適合女生。The waiter recommended a local Hugarian Champagne. Sweet and bubbly. Girls will definitely like it!


又是Goulash,不同的是這湯實在濃郁!我懷疑廚師用了幾頭牛熬成的!
OMG! The best Goulash indeed! Full of flavours and very 'complex'. You can taste all the meat juice and herbs. The veg is as well very delicious as it has absorbed all the essence from the meat and bones. TOP QUALITY!
冬天的季節menu有我最愛的松露!叫我怎能不叫呢?最重要的是隨湯帶有一片塗滿鵝肝的多士,那個湯的味道我現在還記得!大概就是沒一口也有一大堆松露碎和磨菇!配多士竟然出奇的好,而且吃完沒有油膩感!保證在別的國家不會在一個湯找到這麼多松露!
這道菜好像也是季節特推,原個鵝肝配紅酒櫻桃汁。那片多士竟然時沾個蛋液才煎的french toast,面包本身就是優質的all butter brioche,好吃!
輪到壓軸好戲,就是鵝肝釀雞腿!配上用雞湯煮成的米飯,這樣吃鵝肝真的好豪華。
甜品有經典的朱古力梳乎厘,最窩心的是底部藏了一棵酒泡過的黑櫻桃。推介!
然後這個真的是有夠新奇的。它本名是Sweet Pasta 。本來我見到的時候心裡想,甜的pasta真的夠嘔心的。後來友人的大無畏精神驅使下,我們點了半份試試。選口味的時候還指定要bread crumbs and walnuts,後加hugarian cottage cheese。第一口真的有嚇到,因為它完全不是pasta! 簡單說,它其實是質感比較實的蛋糕,面上淋了一層酸奶。不喜歡太甜的應該都會喜歡的!

總結: 我們這餐分別吃了黑松露,鵝肝,喝了香檳,紅酒。人均消費只需要$150港幣左右!
重點是每一道菜也是很好吃,好用心的成果。而且,它是很地道的家常菜,並非市內遊客餐廳的出品。想試試匈牙利菜的一定要去!

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